Crampons and ice axes are essential gear for any exploration in winter mountain landscapes. Crampons are metal spikes that attach to your boots, enabling safe movement on icy surfaces. Without them, progressing on frozen ground would be extremely difficult. There are various types of crampons, designed according to the activity you plan to engage in. But let’s start with the basics!
What’s their history?
The concept of crampons is not new. Around 3,000 years ago, Celtic miners used metal spikes on their shoes to prevent slipping, while similar techniques appeared in the Caucasus region during the same period to ease movement on snow. A depiction of an ancient crampon can even be seen on the Arch of Constantine in Rome. By the 16th century, hunters in Europe equipped themselves with claw-like devices to move more easily in difficult conditions.
The modern crampon began to take shape in the early 20th century, with British climber and mountaineer Oscar Johannes Ludwig Eckenstein being credited as the creator of the first modern crampon. The first commercial model with 10 points was manufactured by Grivel in 1910, and by the 1920s, it had replaced previous designs.
In 1938, during the ascent of the Eiger’s west face, German climbers Anderl Heckmair and Ludwig Vörg introduced 12-point crampons, which outperformed the 10-point ones used by Austrian climbers. In 1967, Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost developed rigid crampons, and by 1980, models with a single front point were introduced, improving boot placement in ice climbing.
Anatomy of a Crampon
Though there are different types of crampons, their basic components remain largely the same.
Binding
The binding is one of the most critical features to consider before purchasing crampons. Not all crampons are compatible with every type of boot, as their attachment method varies. There are three main types of bindings:
Points (Spikes)
The points are the essential part of crampons, maintaining contact with the ice. They are positioned on the surfaces that touch the ice, i.e., under the boots. They are usually made of steel or stainless steel. The number of points varies depending on their use:
The points can be arranged either horizontally or vertically, depending on the crampon’s type and purpose. There are also models with a single front point, offering greater precision for foot placement, ideal for mixed routes.
Frame
The frame of the crampon can be flexible, semi-rigid, or rigid, depending on the central bar:
The central bar typically has an adjustable mechanism, like a clip or pin, to adapt to your boot size.
Anti-Balling System
The Anti-Balling system is designed to prevent snow build-up underneath the crampon. Snow accumulation can reduce ground contact and lead to loss of balance. This feature is now common in almost all crampon models.
Materials
Crampon frames can be made from various materials:
Crampon Classification
Choosing the right crampons is easier when categorized by use and the type of boot they attach to:
